New blood needed
"And so we come to the tragic case of Dior," he writes for the Business of Fashion, after offering his opinion on Raf Simons' Jil Sander departureand Hedi Slimane's YSL arrival. "And it is tragic on more levels than one: that a label needs a designer and that a man, for all his transgressions, needs a job. Fashion needs that man. To insert Bill Gaytten an undisputedly brilliant technician, but not a designer into the gap at Dior can be nothing but a temporary solution. It's high time this gap was closed. But why not with somebody young and untested, as Yves Saint Laurent was when he took over the reins at Dior at the tender age of 21 and went on to revolutionise women's clothes? I still believe that designers with genius and courage, traits which are invariably independent of age, are more likely to thrive at a grand Paris label than at brands in any of the world's other fashion capitals at this point." McDowell made headlines last year after he revealed he had written to Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano to recommend Yves Saint Laurent lookalike Erdem Moralioglu for the vacant post. Another young London based designer, Christopher Kane, was linked with the job last month but told us exclusively that he is not in the running.
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